We arrived about 10 am, too early for hotel check-in, and started with breakfast in Place Stanislaus, a gorgeous, pristinely cared for square in the centre of Nancy.
After breakfast, the visit to the Office de Tourisme furnished us not only with maps but with details of a charter bus that would be available to transport concert-goers to the Zenith amphitheatre for the Johnny Hallyday concert.
The business done, we headed off on our city walk.
The city has an incredible amount of history to absorb. Briefly, Nancy comprises "la ville-vielle" (the old city) built in the 12th to 15th centuries; "la ville-neuve de Charles III" (new town of Duke Charles III) built in a geometrical pattern during the 16th and 17th centuries; and "la ville XVIII" (18th century town) which is primarily a group of three squares, one of which is Place Stanislaus, that link the old and the new cities.
Special highlights of our walk were the gold dipped Place Stanislaus; art nouveau windows and iron decorations on many commercial and residential buildings; a tiny medieval garden of rectangular beds of medicinal and aromatic plants hidden away behind a gate and at the top of a flight of stone steps; a Sunday street market of antiques and brocante (bric-a-brac); and Parc Pepiniere, a 25 hectare public park.
Our hotel (the Hotel des Prelats below) is a 400-year old ecclesiastical mansion next to the cathedrale that was the residence of the Primate of Lorraine until the 19th century (Primate not meaning the monkeys in the small zoo at Parc Pepiniere - which we avoided this year so as not to spoil my visit). Tres charmant, with stained glass window to the bathroom and wooden window shutters decorated with cut-out fleur de lys.
The architecture, fountains and cobbled streets oozed history and it was eerie as our footsteps echoed in the dark passage under fortified gates (bridges that span the width of the street) built centuries earlier.
At 7.30 pm we caught the charter bus to the Zenith for the Johnny Hallyday concert. Now, just to explain, Johnny is known as France's only rock and roll star. He is now 66 years old and has been a rock star for 49 of those years. Tour 66 is his farewell tour (no, not like John Farnham!) and the audience adore him!
The show commenced with the audience chanting "zhonnie, zhonnie, zhonnie allyday"; the curtain went up, fireworks spouted geysers of sparks to the ceiling, and Johnny and his 15-piece band hit the stage amongst a video and light display that could only be rivalled by AC/DC. He sang only two songs in English, both Elvis numbers, but we sang along to French versions of Black is Black (Noir c'est noir), Old Time Rock'N'Roll (Le bon temps du rock'n'roll), Knock on Wood (Aussi dur que du bois); and two of his big hits that we know, Que je t'aime and Ca peut changer le monde.
We had a ball, but nothing to rival the fun had by a group of disabled fans seated behind us. Their aides were kept busy supporting them so they could stand and move to the music, beaming faces all round. C'est vrai, musique reaches everyone!
Arrived back in Paris lunchtime today knowing that tomorrow is our last day. Sigh.
2 comments:
I don't know how you can stand leaving. I am sure if I ever get to go - I am unlikely to return! It goes to fast.
What an interesting place Nancy must be, Place Stanislaus looks great, and a 3 hour walk would be the best way to absorb the history. The concert was a fabulous way to finish the day. L&G
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