Ciao, ciao, Palermo

We found a new café this morning...Pasticceria Cappello.  The café is in a residential neighbourhood just on the edge of the old city.  Fantastic croissant - yes, more a croissant than the Italian cornetto, but a very Italian filling - marmellata for me and pistachio creme for Brent.  Each was handed across the counter with a square of white paper wrapped around one end and we ate them as we held them, standing at the bar drinking our coffee, dropping flaky crumbs on the floor where we stood - just like the locals alongside us!

I love how the interior walls of so many shops display photos of the premises and staff throughout the years, usually many years, and sometimes memorial notices - framed, pinned, taped, or tucked into a window frame.  Occasionally you recognise that the face asking you "Prego," is today's version of a photo of the wall.

We ventured into a tiny gift store, not quite open for business but the owner had opened the door while we were looking in the window - many stores are closed until at least midday Sunday, if not all day.  Awaiting us inside the shop was the owner's Chow Chow dog - oh, my goodness, enormous bundle of fluffiness!  I asked the owner if he brushes him every day.  He joked that that is why he was closed all morning, so he could brush the dog before he opened the store!

I should mention that many, many people we've interacted with in Sicily don't speak English, or speak perhaps a little of a number of languages.  Our conversations mix actions and words (and sometimes French!), and it's made it more fun because it's such a reward when you all reach an understanding.  I've found the Sicilians to be really encouraging and will repeat the Italian word (properly!) for you as you attempt it.

Brent has mastered many pastry terms and the waiter gave him a, "Bravo", this morning as he ordered breakfast!  My favourite phrase has been those final words, "Grazie, ciao, ciao".  Not one ciao, always two!

So, Palermo, we say goodbye to your crazy law-defying traffic, your polished stone laneways, and your earthen-hued buildings that appear to hold each other in place.  I know you wouldn't say it quietly, so I call out to you across the street, "Grazie...ciao, ciao"!