Monday, 1 September 2014

Hangin' in les Halles

This morning at Le Nemrod the waitress came to our table à l'extérieur, tray held high, and asked for our order.  We ordered the usual croissant, pain au chocolat and our favourite coffees..."Voilà," she said, as she swept the tray down to our table...our order was already prepared for us!  We laughed.  It's not always easy to win over the serveur or serveuse in a café and it's a little special when you do!

We headed to les Halles in the 3rd arrondissement for some sneaker shopping for Brent.  As we headed up rue des Archives, we stopped in at les Archives Nationales.  We visited the archives two years ago when it was open to the public on jour de patrimoine, but the gardens were closed.  So, today, we had a wander through the jardins.  The gardens are enclosed by a group of hôtel particuliers, all different and beautiful, which seem to house government offices.  Standing in the gardens, I decided that I want to re-train as an archive librarian and work here...if I could work in these surrounds and bring my baguette out here every day for lunch...oh, quelle joie!

For lunch we visited Pâtisserie Stohrer in rue Montorgueil.  When Marie Leszczynska, daughter of King Stanislas of Poland, travelled to Versailles in 1725 to marry Louis XV, she brought Nicolas Stohrer, her pastry chef, with her.  M. Stohrer opened his rue Montorgueil shop in 1730 and is credited with invention of the baba au rhum...one of our favourite pastries.  So, lunch - baguette roquette et jambon (to share) and an exquisite, rum-soaked baba to follow...mmm.

Then it was on to les Halles for sneakers.  Now, les Halles is kind of edgy...a little bit of Collingwood in Paris, if you know what I mean, but it's the spot for sneaker shopping.  Down in the airless basement of a shop - working up a sweat without even giving the sneakers a run - Brent found some sporty numbers for son pieds.  Unlike me, Brent only shops for clothing once a year...in Paris...and his plan usually includes some out-of-the-way destinations like today's sneaker basement.  It's always fun...we meet people we wouldn't usually meet and see sights we wouldn't usually see...I love it!

On the walk home we picked up dessert...a fig tarte pour moi and a macaron...not just any macaron, but le Mac macaron...for Brent!






3 comments:

Anonymous said...

I just love that Macaron! Wait until I show that picture to the Cavallini baker.
I'd love to sit on that seat in the gardens and paint, or cross stitch, or throw a stick to my Border terrier....and if a scrubby old Beagle wandered by, I'd play with her too!

Anonymous said...

Hi Sally & Brent, A Mac macaron indeed - on with the new sneakers and out for a jog. The 'photos are lovely, what a garden to look out on, in any season, quelle joie vraiment. Is there such a thing as a scrubby old beagle in Paris - non!
Love, L&G

Anonymous said...

Sally and Brent

I'm not sure but I think I read somewhere that there are actually no beagles in the whole of France anymore.

Apparently in the 5th century, after banishing all the snakes from Ireland Saint Patrick sailed over to France to do them a favour as well. He just tied a chop to a migrating stork and every last beagle followed along nose in the air. They were reported moving at speed across Eastern Europe and the last confirmed sighting was in Russia east of the Urals.

It was soon after that the first border terrier arrived in Paris where it was instantly popular with royalty - appearing on various heraldic coats of arms - and was the national animal until replaced by the poodle in the
16th century.

It is a little known fact that the town of Bordeaux was named in honour of a border terrier that barked it's head off and warned of an approaching enemy army in 1265.

Luckily the Russian general in charge of the attacking enemy had a scrubby old pet beagle that made such a lip smacking noise when it came across a stale fig tarte and a half eaten le Mac macaron that the ever vigilant and civic minded border was instantly on guard and quick to raise the alarm and save the whole population - just another day in the life of that most noble of beasts - THE TRES BON BORDER TERRIER!

Cheers, Paul

PS Keen to see a photo of Brent's sneakers.