The hotel was an oasis. The Aventino hill is quiet and residential - just how we like it. Testaccio, which was our local hub, is how I picture life in Rome to be. The streets surround the piazza - the meeting place for parents with children and dog walkers - and we joined the local men and women sitting side by side on the seats facing into the square.
Back at the hotel, we loved breakfast in the garden. For other times of the day or night you could order a coffee, drink, panino, salad or cake for delivery to your room or to take out to the garden or courtyards. There was a lounge filled with deep leather seats and velvet sofas, walls lined with books and magazines. Our third-floor room was a treat - two windows overlooking the garden and surrounding rooftops - and a decor that was luxurious and fun. Service was friendly and helpful - even remembering our coffee preference for breakfast.
Rome is gritty, loud and fast. I was struck by the female presence - not just the short shorts and beautiful skin, but a feminine strength. Two women garbos ran the Aventino circuit; security at the Colosseum dressed in unisex uniforms, the women a standout with hot-pink painted nails; our favourite spot - the Tram Depot - run by young women.
As we taxied out to the train station, there was a couple on a motorbike in front of us. He, the driver, dressed in crisp, white work shirt and tailored pants and shoes; she, the passenger, in white singlet, black and white striped tulip skirt, summer heels. She sat forward, arms wrapped round her driver, handbag pressed securely between them. At the lights, she straightened, stretched, adjusted her handbag, and lent in as the light changed to green. A little further on they pulled to the side of the road, she stepped off, they kissed, helmets still on...starting work the Roma way!
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